Beng Mealea

Beng Mealea is a spectacular sight to behold. It's one of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, as nature has well and truly run riot. Built to the same floorplan as Angkor Wat, exploring this titanic of temples is Angkor's ultimate Indiana Jones experience. Built in the 12th century under Suryavarman II (r 1112-52), Beng Mealea is enclosed by a massive moat measuring 1.2km by 900m, much of which has dried up today.

The temple used to be utterly subsumed by jungle, but some of the dense foliage has been cut back in recent years. Entering from the south, visitors wend their way over piles of masonry, through long dark chambers and between hanging vines to arrive at the central tower, which has completely collapsed. Hidden away among the rubble and foliage are several impressive carvings, as well as a well-preserved library in the northeastern quadrant. The temple is a special place and it is worth taking the time to explore it thoroughly. There is also a large wooden walkway to the centre, originally constructed for the filming of Jean-Jacques Annaud's Two Brothers (2004).

Beng Mealea is at the centre of an ancient Angkorian road connecting Angkor Thom and Preah Khan in Preah Vihear Province. A small Angkorian bridge just west of Chau Srei Vibol temple is the only remaining trace of the old Angkorian road between Beng Mealea and Angkor Thom; between Beng Mealea and Preah Khan there are at least 10 bridges abandoned in the forest. This is a way for extreme adventurers to get to Preah Khan temple ; however, don't undertake this journey lightly.

It now costs USaround USD5 to visit Beng Mealea and there are additional small charges for cars and motorcycles - make sure you work out in advance who is paying this. It is best to undertake a long day trip combining Beng Mealea, Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei.

Beng Mealea is about 40km east of Bayon (as the crow flies) and 6.5km southeast of Phnom Kulen. By road it is about 70km from Siem Reap and is a 1½ hour trip.

The shortest route is via the small town of Dam Dek, located on NH6 towards Phnom Penh. Turn north immediately after the market and continue on this road for about 35km. The entrance to the temple lies just beyond the left-hand turn to Koh Ker.

For the second, longer route, take the road towards Banteay Srei and follow the right fork to Phnom Kulen, continuing right at the major crossroads along the base of the holy mountain. Follow this route for about 25km until you leave Kulen behind and come to a T-junction where you turn left on to the tarmac for the final 10km to Beng Mealea. This is another private road and partly privatised temple, where profit takes precedence over preservation. It usually costs USaround USD3 for a car, US around USD2 for a motorbike, but that is each way, believe it or not!

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